When you think of South India, what comes to your mind first? For many, it’s the delicious cuisine—images of steaming idlis, crispy dosas, and flavourful sambars spring to mind. But closely following are the tall, intricate gopurams of majestic temples. Especially in Tamil Nadu, cityscapes are punctuated by these towering gateways that seem to rise out of nowhere. Tamil Nadu is the heartland of the Chola dynasty, a realm where rulers were not only exceptional administrators but also visionary builders and patrons of art. They left an enduring legacy through their magnificent temples.
Among the many Chola temples scattered across southern India, three stand out as unparalleled examples of Dravida architecture. The Brihadisvara Temple at Thanjavur, the Brihadisvara Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram, and the Airavatesvara Temple at Darasuram are collectively known as the “Great Living Chola Temples” and have been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A Long-Awaited Pilgrimage
As a templeophile, these architectural marvels had long been on my bucket list. A long weekend in August finally gave me the opportunity to embark on this journey. I boarded an overnight bus from Bangalore and arrived in Kumbakonam the next morning. The weather was as expected—hot and humid. However, coming from the perpetually mild climes of Bangalore, the morning heat of Kumbakonam felt like stepping into an oven.
Kumbakonam, a quintessential Tamil Nadu town, is teeming with temples and spiritual fervor. Two of the three Great Living Chola Temples are located close to this town. After checking into my hotel and freshening up, I began planning my day. The scorching afternoon sun made it impossible to venture far, so I decided to explore a couple of prominent temples within walking distance of my hotel: the Sarangapani Temple and the Athi Kumbeshwar Temple.
Exploring Kumbakonam
The Sarangapani Temple, with its massive gopuram, dominates the town’s skyline. Visiting in the quiet afternoon, I found the temple nearly deserted. The cool granite interiors were a welcome respite from the heat. I wandered through the vast complex, marvelling at the intricate carvings, and captured some photographs of the towering gopuram.
Next, I visited the Athi Kumbeshwar Temple, which was larger and busier. Here, I was greeted with the aroma of freshly prepared pongal, served as prasadam. The sweet, warm dish was a delightful treat. After lunch at a nearby eatery, I returned to the hotel for a much-needed nap after my sleepless bus journey.
The Airavatesvara Temple: A Jewel in Stone
By 4 PM, despite the persistent heat, I ventured out to visit the Airavatesvara Temple in Darasuram, just 5 km from Kumbakonam. A short bus ride later, I found myself standing before the magnificent temple complex.
The Airavatesvara Temple, built by Rajaraja II in the 12th century, is the smallest of the three Great Living Chola Temples. Legend has it that Airavata, the white elephant of Indra, worshipped Lord Shiva here, lending the temple its name.
The temple’s design is exquisite, with its mandapam conceptualized as a chariot complete with stone wheels. The reddish granite structure seemed to glow in the late-afternoon sunlight, perfect for photography. Walking through the quiet complex, I felt transported back in time. The intricate carvings on the pillars, bathed in slanting sunlight, created an almost mystical atmosphere. With few visitors around, the experience was serene and deeply moving.
A Challenging Journey to Gangaikondacholapuram
The next day, I set out for Gangaikondacholapuram, about 30 km from Kumbakonam. Navigating the public transport system proved challenging—none of the buses displayed signboards in English, and finding someone who spoke Hindi or English was a task in itself. After some trial and error, I finally found the right bus, but the journey was far from smooth. Two hours and a bus change later, I arrived at my destination.
The Brihadisvara Temple at Gangaikondacholapuram was built by Rajendra I to commemorate his victorious northern campaign. He named the site after having holy water from the Ganga brought here to sanctify the temple well. Once a thriving capital of the Chola empire, today, the temple stands solitary amidst modest surroundings.
The temple complex, though less preserved than others, exudes grandeur. Its vimana towers at 55 meters, and the intricate sculptures depict deities like Shiva, Durga, and Vishnu. My favorite was a sculpture of Shiva garlanding King Rajendra I—a testament to the ruler’s devotion and artistic vision.
The Grand Finale: The Big Temple
My final destination was the Brihadisvara Temple in Thanjavur, often called the “Big Temple.” Built by Rajaraja I in the 11th century, this colossal temple is a masterpiece of Dravida architecture. Its 63.4-meter-tall vimana was one of the tallest structures of its time, constructed without the use of binding material—an engineering marvel.
Entering through the Keralantakan Tiruvasal, the first gopuram, I caught my first glimpse of the vast courtyard. Passing through the Rajarajan Tiruvasal, I was greeted by the massive mandapam, the majestic vimana, and a monolithic Nandi. The scale and symmetry of the temple were breathtaking.
The garbhagriha housed a massive Shiva lingam, and the walls of the temple were adorned with exquisite carvings. The smaller shrines around the main temple were equally impressive, each dedicated to deities like Parvati, Ganesha, and Kartikeya. Despite the humid weather, I spent hours exploring and photographing every angle of this architectural wonder. I have added this temple to my own curated list of temples with magnificent architecture.
Reflections on the heritage
As I boarded my train back home, I felt a deep sense of fulfilment. The Great Living Chola Temples had lived up to every expectation. These masterpieces of art and architecture stand as enduring symbols of a glorious past, a testament to the ingenuity and devotion of the Chola dynasty. Their grandeur will forever leave visitors in awe.